As many of you have heard I am Herculining the interior of my XJ and I promised a write-up…so here it is Its my first write-up so bare with me…lol 1. Tools Needed a. Herculiner Kit i. Gallon Paint ii. Bristle Pad iii. Brush iv. Rollers (not completely necessary) b. Basic Wrench/Ratchet Kit c. Screwdrivers d. Acetone e. Rags f. 1-1/8" Hole saw and 3/8" Drill Bit2. Begin by removing the seats 3. Remove the rear seats using a 16mm ratchet to remove the back of the rear seats, there is one on each side. 4. The front seats each have four bolts. The fronts of the brackets have two 13mm bolts.The rears of the brackets have two different style bolts. The outsides have bolts that are removed with a 13mm bolt, mine were pretty tough to get out. (they are easiest removed with the se

After I installed my 2.25 budget boost I noticed driveline vibrations. So I wanted to lower my transfer case. When I tried removing the 6 bolts holding the skid plate up, only one came out. The other 5 loosened slightly and spun without lowering. When I attempted to tighten them up they kept spinning. To remove the 5 spinning bolts I needed a 2 foot pry bar and an impact wrench. I put a floor jack under the skid plate, leaving an inch gap between the jack and the skid plate. Working from one side at a time, I inserted the pry bar between the frame rail and the skid plate. As I asserted downward pressure I was able to loosen the bolts. Each bolt would loosen about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch at a time. I would move from one bolt to the next until I had the 3 on each side removed. Once both si

I finally replaced my weak CV shafts found in ZJ with stronger U-joint axle shafts. One day I found a pair of old XJ axle shafts with ABS that needed new u-joints on e-bay and $80 and one week later they were mine. Of course, after hanging out with you guys I couldn't just OEM rebuild them so modding began. First I had to decide on what u-joints I would want to run with my D30. D30 axle shafts come stock with 5-297x u-joints. There are plenty of choices : OX, CTM, Spices etc but after estimating $$$ of my project "want" got replaced on "need" and "can afford". For example great Ox u-joint - $130 or even better CTM joint -$205 . My choice fell on Spicer 5-760x u-joint, used by Superior in their Super 30 kits. It's good affordable ($23 shipped) u-joint that also used in Dana 4

I know this has been posted prior, this is simply the documentation of how I did this. Thanks especially to the forum: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...power+inverter In essence, I wanted to hardwire from the battery to a power inverter inside the cab of my Wrangler TJ (2003). This inverter was to be operated from a separate switch on the center console, and the inverter powering a standard outlet mounted in the lower center console. Below is the basic wiring diagram: Steps: 1) Mount the inline fuse near the battery in the engine compartment2) Run 6ga wire from battery, through inline fuse, across back of engine compartment to opposite site. Electrical tape, wrap with conduit and wire tie to secure3) Drill hole through EXISTING rubber grommet through firewall, and run wire into

This was my first major repair and I found it fairly difficult to get instructions for someone without extensive mechanical knowledge. i'll assume that the reader has little mechanical experience as well. Before you read any of the following, it's vital to ALWAYS document what parts came off of what. Use ziplock bags to put bolts for different things in them and label the bag. Never leave your bolts or nuts laying loose on a table unlabeled. First things first: grab a camera and take a few shots from different angles around the engine compartment. You'll thank yourself later on when you're holding a mystery piece in your hand and haven't the foggiest idea where it came from. Disconnect your negative battery terminal. Drain your coolant. If you've never done this before, it's ve

I went to Wal-Mart and picked up: - 2 Cans of Krylon Fusion (Satin Black) - 2 100/pack Index Cards - 1 Roll of Masking Tape - 1 Roll of Clear Plastic Total Cost = $18.00 Time to Complete = 2 Hours (less than)Before Photos:Before I started taping off the flares, I cleaned them really well with some Windex. I tucked the index cards behind the flares and taped them in place.I wasn't really comfortable with my paint-control abilities, so I also taped down some plastic too. I covered the ends of that sweet-a** front bumper with my custom 'Safeway' masking bags.I used small strips of masking tape to cover the turn signal lenses. (I used one of those 'shopper cards' on my keychain to tuck the edges around the lenses)Here it is, in all it's ghetto-fab gloryI sprayed on 3 thin/medium coat

I started my build with the obvious step of removing the factory roll bars. This was not as easy as it sounds. A couple of years ago, I herculined the inside of my jeep and I covered all the torx bolt heads and plates with that stuff. It took a long time to dig it out of the bolts and to cut it around the plates. I learned a lesson that day. Remove bolts before hercing. I also learned this stuff is tough.Once the roll bar is out of the way, measure how wide you want your B pillar hoop to be. Remember to leave room for plates and leave a little gap around everything like the door latches and in the corner where the plates are. Take your time on this step because everything else is build around this hoop.Thanks to Terry, I learned some new tubing tricks. Here is the first couple. It is diffi

Here is the process I used to convert my 1989 YJ to a round headlight grill. Before we get in to it... Here is a finished photo...The first thing you need to do is remove the YJ grill by... 1) removing the fan shroud by unbolting it from the radiator 2) removing the radiator by unbolting it from the grill 3) unbolting the inner fender well bolts that hold the grill in place (8 each side) 4) loosening the upper rod supports from the grill 5) removing the body mount bolt on the underside of the grill. 6) removing the wiring harness from the grill Now that the YJ grill is gone... Slide the TJ grill in to place. (a picture with the grill test fitted)You may notice your fenders may bow out at this point. This is due to the fact the TJ grill is wider at the bottom. This is not a

I couldn't afford the $2000 kit from Hesco, but Hesco will actually sell individual pieces. You can even download their intallation instructions, so the details I leave out can be found in there. I got all of my junkyard parts off of a 95 Cherokee 4.0. Here is what you will need. - Intake manifold w/ throttle body, fuel rail etc. - Engine wiring harness w/ PDC( I found the wiring to be easier with the PDC) - ECM (Computer) - E200 Fuel Pump (From some Ford trucks) - Coil - Distributor - Fuel pump block off plate (For a big block Chevy) - O2 sensor - Thermostat housing and temp sensor - Throttle cable - Map sensor Then I placed an order to www.hescosc.com - Dampner - CPS mounting bracket - Diode from Hesco to hook to alternator wire I then started removing all of

After a day of fun you Jeep may look like this:On my Jeep I have aftermarket wheels so I am able to access the main hub nut with the wheel still on. Start by removing the cotter pin:Then the cap:And behind the cap is a spring (shown on left):Next, use your trusty 36mm socket to break that nut before you take off the wheel:With the nut torqued to 175ft/lbs and rust/dirt seizing up the nut, it isn't a surprise that a cheater bar helps In this case it is my old tie rod.Now jack up your axle:And remove the wheel, place it under your sliders if you have them or under your hub in the event your Jeep falls off the jack, it won't crash onto the ground:Next, remove the caliper bracket (2 x 18mm bolts) and hang it from the spring via wire or zip ties:Next, on the back side of the knuckle there ar