The good folks at Jeep have lent us some Jeep Engineers for the night to answer any questions you might have about the Patriot and Compass. The event starts tonight at 5:00PM EST and usually lasts for about an hour or two. At 5:00PM EST they will create a thread in the following forum that you can post in; http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=144
I have always been fond of the CJ7 since I was a child. I owned a CJ5 and then two different Wranglers but the CJ7 never lost its appeal. So when it came time to decide on which platform to use for the JeepForum Promotional Jeep Project I knew it had to be the CJ7.
Texas isnít kind on Jeep prices but after looking for several months and a half dozen CJís later I finally found a 1982 CJ7 in my small neighborhood of all places. It came with exactly what I wanted; 258 engine, T5 5 speed manual transmission, Dana 300 transfer case and best of all no rust. It was a bargain as well, granted it needed instant work to get running.
We bought it and after extensive maintenance including replacing the entire brake system the Jeep is now good to go and the real build-up has begun.
Finally got around to swapping in my durango steering box today. Overall I'm impressed but it could be because my other one was junk. It bolts up without a hitch. Same bolt pattern just a wider box. 3 full turns lock to lock. To do this you will need...
A steering gear box from a 99 Durango 5.2L
Pitman arm puller
1 and 5/16" socket
ft/lbs torque wrench
power steering fluid
Jack and stands
Steering gear to frame: 65 ft/lbs
Pitman arms to shaft: 185 ft/lbs
Stabilizer bar to frame: 55 ft/lbs
Stabilizer bar to link: 27 ft/lbs
Center link to pitman arms: 55 ft lbs
---------Start by Jacking up the front axle and getting the wheels off of the ground. Then secure jackstands under the vehicle.
Don't know if it belongs here, or if it should just go out on the main forum...but it is worth a shot.
When I bought my LJ, it had the stock stereo installed with the single cd player. I had XM installed in my previous car, and I wanted it in my Jeep. My mechanical skills are slightly above my labrador retriever, but only because I have opposable thumbs. Anyone can do this install with the following tools. I installed mine with the cigar charger at this time, but I will be purchasing a power cord that wires directly into the ignition at a later time.
Phillips head screwdriver
Seriously, that is it.Location, location, location
After I had spent a few minutes deciding where to install the receiver, I decided that the top of the windshield would be the best option. I placed it in se
Weber 32/36 Carburetor Install - Kit # K551 / K551-S*
*Note this kit is the K551-S, all the steps are the same, and there is only an extra step at the end to reconnect the stock air cleaner. If you are using the square cleaner that comes with the K551, then stop following these instructions when the stock cleaner adapter is installed and bolt on the one in your kit.
I purchased this kit from Carbs Unlimited and it did not come with very good instructions. So I combined instructions I found on the web and the poor ones that came in the kit. I decided to write up how I completed the install and include pictures so that I could try to help some people out when they install their Weber.
1990 YJ, Colorado Red with Laredo markings
The engine is a 1999 re-built 4.2L with the st
Let me start off by saying that this absolutly cost free mod is one of my favorites. Heres what was used-
- Skinny plastic object (I used a plastic light cover)
- Duck Tape
- Clear Box tape
- Soapy water
- Muscle Power
- Salvanise, To get off the little tiny bits of glue left behind (not necessary)I started of by just pealing off the molding by hand. No heat gun was needed as the trim came off fairly easy. Here's what was left after pealing the molding off by hand.I then used the soapy water and just cleaned the area off, there was alot of dust and dirt under the moldings. This also loosened up the 3M adhesive still left on the car.
I put togather the item i was going to use to very easily push the adhesive off with. It was the skinny plastic peice with 1 layer of duck tape over
If you're looking for a place to relocate your factory Rubicon Air-Locker compressors, here's one idea for you ...
It doesn't take very much new material ... I was able to complete this project with some scraps I had lying around the garage. The only new stuff I bought was some vacuum line, to extend the run to the rear axle, some new conduit, and some Krylon spray paint. I wish I could remember the sizes and lengths of the air-line, but I just brought the 2 hose sizes with me when I went to AutoZone and bought a bunch of length of the same diameters ...
It all starts when you remove the factory skid plate and see this ...Be VERY careful handling this assembly as the plastic nipples for the air-hoses are fragile ... if you break one, you're most likely going to be buying a new replac
So one of the things I wanted to do when I bought this Jeep was to clean up the dash and build a cage. I was looking for a safe jeep my son could drive and at the same time a little ďcoolĒ factor.
I had kicked around a few ideas of using tube for an overhead with a small box for just the stereo. But decided to make a bigger box that would allow me to install a few switches as well as an overhead dome light or two. Iíll probably add switches for auxiliary lights as well as a shut off for the electric fuel pump. Iím certain Iíll pull a few extra 12 gauge wires just for the stuff I forget and want to add later.
The box is made of 11 gauge .120 sheet steel, which is the same thickness as the stock bar and the Kentrol "sport cage" it is tied into. Stainless Steel Specialties, a company he
***Although the steps I took throughout this modification were thought of on-the-fly, I originally did not think of the general idea myself.***
After putting my LT285/75R16 Trxus on my tail-gate, I resorted to lifting up the third brake light housing with about 5 washers on each bolt, still leaving it barely snugged up above the top of the tire. After seeing some of the other guys on the forum fix the problem differently, I decided to do the same by ridding the third brake light from the back end of the TJ, and replace the center cap on my spare with a 2" marker from Advance Auto Parts. The light was under $3.00, and no extra wiring, glue, tape, or adapter was used to connect it to my wheel. They sold LED lights (same size) but I decided to go cheap, even though the LED was only about $
This is a fix for the JK's
A hole in the bottom of the jeep will shoot mud up and behind both of the rear tail lights.
First remove the tail lights The 2 screws only on the right side of the left light and the left side of the right light. Then clean out the cavity well!Left side out.Right side out.
Next you see the hole on each side.Left side hole.Then place a piece of rubber over the holes.Next fill with Marine low expansion foam.Left side full up to the tag wires and don't get any on the gas breather.Right side about half way up.
Let cure, reconnect wires to lights and screw back in..
Left rear done!Now no more mud or stuff will go up into the holes and rot out behind your tail lights..
I got the marine low expansion foam from a boat repair house. It is made to breath a