If you're looking for a place to relocate your factory Rubicon Air-Locker compressors, here's one idea for you ...
It doesn't take very much new material ... I was able to complete this project with some scraps I had lying around the garage. The only new stuff I bought was some vacuum line, to extend the run to the rear axle, some new conduit, and some Krylon spray paint. I wish I could remember the sizes and lengths of the air-line, but I just brought the 2 hose sizes with me when I went to AutoZone and bought a bunch of length of the same diameters ...
It all starts when you remove the factory skid plate and see this ...Be VERY careful handling this assembly as the plastic nipples for the air-hoses are fragile ... if you break one, you're most likely going to be buying a new replac
So one of the things I wanted to do when I bought this Jeep was to clean up the dash and build a cage. I was looking for a safe jeep my son could drive and at the same time a little “cool” factor.
I had kicked around a few ideas of using tube for an overhead with a small box for just the stereo. But decided to make a bigger box that would allow me to install a few switches as well as an overhead dome light or two. I’ll probably add switches for auxiliary lights as well as a shut off for the electric fuel pump. I’m certain I’ll pull a few extra 12 gauge wires just for the stuff I forget and want to add later.
The box is made of 11 gauge .120 sheet steel, which is the same thickness as the stock bar and the Kentrol "sport cage" it is tied into. Stainless Steel Specialties, a company he
***Although the steps I took throughout this modification were thought of on-the-fly, I originally did not think of the general idea myself.***
After putting my LT285/75R16 Trxus on my tail-gate, I resorted to lifting up the third brake light housing with about 5 washers on each bolt, still leaving it barely snugged up above the top of the tire. After seeing some of the other guys on the forum fix the problem differently, I decided to do the same by ridding the third brake light from the back end of the TJ, and replace the center cap on my spare with a 2" marker from Advance Auto Parts. The light was under $3.00, and no extra wiring, glue, tape, or adapter was used to connect it to my wheel. They sold LED lights (same size) but I decided to go cheap, even though the LED was only about $
This is a fix for the JK's
A hole in the bottom of the jeep will shoot mud up and behind both of the rear tail lights.
First remove the tail lights The 2 screws only on the right side of the left light and the left side of the right light. Then clean out the cavity well!Left side out.Right side out.
Next you see the hole on each side.Left side hole.Then place a piece of rubber over the holes.Next fill with Marine low expansion foam.Left side full up to the tag wires and don't get any on the gas breather.Right side about half way up.
Let cure, reconnect wires to lights and screw back in..
Left rear done!Now no more mud or stuff will go up into the holes and rot out behind your tail lights..
I got the marine low expansion foam from a boat repair house. It is made to breath a
CB Radio Installation
Vehicle: 2000 Jeep Cherokee (XJ)
This installation can be applied to any ’97-’01 Cherokee (XJ). However, the overall gist of the installation can be applied to almost any car.
- Wire Crimper
- Wire Strippers
- Butt Splices
- 16 Gauge Wire
- 2 In-line fuses (10 amp)
- Stud Ring Connectors
- Electrical Tape
Decide where you would like to mount the CB. I kept in mind how often I’d be using it, where I’d be able to hear it best, and where it would not interfere with other passengers or myself. I chose to mount it on the center console, on the passenger side. I know many may say that this would interfere with the movement of the passenger seat, or the passengers themselves, but I haven’t had any problems th
As many of you have heard I am Herculining the interior of my XJ and I promised a write-up…so here it is
Its my first write-up so bare with me…lol
1. Tools Needed
a. Herculiner Kit
i. Gallon Paint
ii. Bristle Pad
iv. Rollers (not completely necessary)
b. Basic Wrench/Ratchet Kit
f. 1-1/8" Hole saw and 3/8" Drill Bit2. Begin by removing the seats
3. Remove the rear seats using a 16mm ratchet to remove the back of the rear seats, there is one on each side.
4. The front seats each have four bolts. The fronts of the brackets have two 13mm bolts.The rears of the brackets have two different style bolts. The outsides have bolts that are removed with a 13mm bolt, mine were pretty tough to get out. (they are easiest removed with the se
After I installed my 2.25 budget boost I noticed driveline vibrations. So I wanted to lower my transfer case. When I tried removing the 6 bolts holding the skid plate up, only one came out. The other 5 loosened slightly and spun without lowering. When I attempted to tighten them up they kept spinning.
To remove the 5 spinning bolts I needed a 2 foot pry bar and an impact wrench. I put a floor jack under the skid plate, leaving an inch gap between the jack and the skid plate. Working from one side at a time, I inserted the pry bar between the frame rail and the skid plate. As I asserted downward pressure I was able to loosen the bolts. Each bolt would loosen about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch at a time. I would move from one bolt to the next until I had the 3 on each side removed. Once both si
I finally replaced my weak CV shafts found in ZJ with stronger U-joint axle shafts.
One day I found a pair of old XJ axle shafts with ABS that needed new u-joints on e-bay and $80 and one week later they were mine.
Of course, after hanging out with you guys I couldn't just OEM rebuild them so modding began.
First I had to decide on what u-joints I would want to run with my D30. D30 axle shafts come stock with 5-297x u-joints. There are plenty of choices : OX, CTM, Spices etc but after estimating $$$ of my project "want" got replaced on "need" and "can afford".
For example great Ox u-joint - $130 or even better CTM joint -$205 .
My choice fell on Spicer 5-760x u-joint, used by Superior in their Super 30 kits. It's good affordable ($23 shipped) u-joint that also used in Dana 4
I know this has been posted prior, this is simply the documentation of how I did this. Thanks especially to the forum: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...power+inverter
In essence, I wanted to hardwire from the battery to a power inverter inside the cab of my Wrangler TJ (2003). This inverter was to be operated from a separate switch on the center console, and the inverter powering a standard outlet mounted in the lower center console. Below is the basic wiring diagram:
1) Mount the inline fuse near the battery in the engine compartment2) Run 6ga wire from battery, through inline fuse, across back of engine compartment to opposite site. Electrical tape, wrap with conduit and wire tie to secure3) Drill hole through EXISTING rubber grommet through firewall, and run wire into
This was my first major repair and I found it fairly difficult to get instructions for someone without extensive mechanical knowledge. i'll assume that the reader has little mechanical experience as well.
Before you read any of the following, it's vital to ALWAYS document what parts came off of what. Use ziplock bags to put bolts for different things in them and label the bag. Never leave your bolts or nuts laying loose on a table unlabeled.
First things first: grab a camera and take a few shots from different angles around the engine compartment. You'll thank yourself later on when you're holding a mystery piece in your hand and haven't the foggiest idea where it came from.
Disconnect your negative battery terminal.
Drain your coolant. If you've never done this before, it's ve