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Tj Cowl Induction & Snorkle
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Tj Cowl Induction & Snorkle

Date Created: 08/20/2008
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Tj Cowl Induction & Snorkle
It's my first write-up, I will ad more pictures later.. as well as fix mistakes.
(I didn't realize I was supposed to post this in the write-ups area)

I started this project some time ago, looking at different write ups which made it a lot harder then it ended up being because you had to source junkyard parts and crap. Since sourcing the parts was a pain in the butt, I made this write-up so anyone that wanted to take a trip down to Autozone, could get everything they would need.

I have this installed and it works nice... I will add my mileage/horsepower benefits later.. as I just really did this to get clean cold air, instead of the warm dirty air it pulls from under the hood as well as a type of snorkel for deeper water driving & protection.. So far it
has provided better throttle response as well as some minuscule gas mileage increase.

DIY Stealth Snorkle/Cold Air intake:
Cost: $75



Novice install time from prep: 30-60 minutes

Requires the following:
Hole saw
Drill
Silicon
And the following products:

1- Cone Air Filter – Part No. 9192 – 19.99


1- 90 degree elbow – Part No. 8698 - $9.99


2- Air Intake ducts – Part No. 8148 - $5.99


1- Air hose 3” x 3 feet – Part No. 8741 – $19.99


2- Intake Tube Coupler’s – Part No. 8771-6 – $7.99


4- 2.5” to 3” hose clamps around $4 bucks



STEP ONE
Take the two Air intake ducts and attach them back to back using Silicone sealant so you have two ends away from each other to attach pipe to. Hold them together for a couple hours or a day to ensure a nice hold. Cut away any silicon that may appear in the center






STEP TWO
Take off the air induction cowl which is held on by 7 screws and two wipers.
4 of the screws are along the window sill – 1 is in the center of the vent on the hood.



2 more screws are actually where the hood meets the cowl. you have to lift the hood to get to them.



The wipers have this little lip on the backside, closest to the cowl that you just pull down a half inch to let you pull off the wiper arms.



STEP THREE
After you remove the cowl, you will see the cowl basin area, wiper motor, and AC/Heater shield duct. Depending on where you put the hole and where the air filter ends up, depends on if you will need to take out the AC/Heater shield. Keep in mind, you will need something to prevent water from flowing down the vent and onto your floor boards if you remove the little air-dam that covers this hole...




I took mine out, but I don’t think I needed to after all was said and done.. but anyway. Take it out for now. measure up and cut a whole in the firewall/cowl area so that one end of the Air Intake ducts fits through.



Drill out the firewall for the four bolt holes that you will see in the air intake ducts you attached to each other. This will allow you to mount the intake to the firewall/cowl area. I would put a little silicon where the intake duct meets the firewall) and put the bolts through and tighten it up.


STEP FOUR
Take the 90 degree elbow

and one of the Intake Tube Coupler’s


Attach one end of the rubber coupler to the air intake duct that is inside the cowl area.

Attach the other end of the rubber coupler to the 90 degree elbow (which the opening should be facing the passenger side) and then attach the Air filter
to the other end of the 90 degree elbow.



The inside is pretty much done. Depending on the clearance of the air filter, there is a small chance you may need to use a 5lb hand sledge to pound down some metal inside the cowl area. And before you close up the cowl area, turn on your wipers to make sure your motor arm will clear the 90 degree tube. Slight pipe adjustments will fix any clearance problems you will have.

Then bolt down the cowl and you are done with the first half of the project.

The second half will differ a little on how you do it…



LAST STEP
If you have the stock ABS pipe, you can cut it down as close as you can to the throttle body, keeping in mind that you will still need petcock so the vent line can still run from the valve cover.

At this point, all you need to do is take the 3” x 3 foot Air Pipe (http://www.autozone.com/images/produ...spe8741003.jpg) and run it from the intake coupler you just attached to the firewall, to the pipe headed to the throttle body.

I have this intake riser that I think can be found on 97-98 TJ's.. and the only reason I have it was because I bought it trying to do some other custom stuff, otherwise I would have just cut off the tube running to the stock box and piped right up to it.

If you want to see what the clearance looks like from the sides:




And that is pretty much it!

The filter can be changed to whatever anyone wants.. if they have one preference over another. I just put this together to keep it simple. Sounds awesome when you press the pedal



Top down view:





You may also consider putting a cowl scoop on your rig backwards so the opening faces the windshield. You would get better airflow and keep the majority of any rain out of the cowl area all together. It has something to do with how the air hits the windshield and creates a vortex, which forces air into the cowl better then if it was facing forward.



That is what I may do next.

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