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04/22/2008
This was my first major repair and I found it fairly difficult to get instructions for someone without extensive mechanical knowledge. i'll assume that the reader has little mechanical experience as well. Before you read any of the following, it's vital to ALWAYS document what parts came off of what. Use ziplock bags to put bolts for different things in them and label the bag. Never leave your bolts or nuts laying loose on a table unlabeled. First things first: grab a camera and take a few shots from different angles around the engine compartment. You'll thank yourself later on when you're holding a mystery piece in your hand and haven't the foggiest idea where it came from. Disconnect your negative battery terminal. Drain your coolant. If you've never done this before, it's ve
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04/22/2008
I went to Wal-Mart and picked up: - 2 Cans of Krylon Fusion (Satin Black) - 2 100/pack Index Cards - 1 Roll of Masking Tape - 1 Roll of Clear Plastic Total Cost = $18.00 Time to Complete = 2 Hours (less than)Before Photos:Before I started taping off the flares, I cleaned them really well with some Windex. I tucked the index cards behind the flares and taped them in place.I wasn't really comfortable with my paint-control abilities, so I also taped down some plastic too. I covered the ends of that sweet-a** front bumper with my custom 'Safeway' masking bags.I used small strips of masking tape to cover the turn signal lenses. (I used one of those 'shopper cards' on my keychain to tuck the edges around the lenses)Here it is, in all it's ghetto-fab gloryI sprayed on 3 thin/medium coat
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04/22/2008
I started my build with the obvious step of removing the factory roll bars. This was not as easy as it sounds. A couple of years ago, I herculined the inside of my jeep and I covered all the torx bolt heads and plates with that stuff. It took a long time to dig it out of the bolts and to cut it around the plates. I learned a lesson that day. Remove bolts before hercing. I also learned this stuff is tough.Once the roll bar is out of the way, measure how wide you want your B pillar hoop to be. Remember to leave room for plates and leave a little gap around everything like the door latches and in the corner where the plates are. Take your time on this step because everything else is build around this hoop.Thanks to Terry, I learned some new tubing tricks. Here is the first couple. It is diffi
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04/22/2008
Here is the process I used to convert my 1989 YJ to a round headlight grill. Before we get in to it... Here is a finished photo...The first thing you need to do is remove the YJ grill by... 1) removing the fan shroud by unbolting it from the radiator 2) removing the radiator by unbolting it from the grill 3) unbolting the inner fender well bolts that hold the grill in place (8 each side) 4) loosening the upper rod supports from the grill 5) removing the body mount bolt on the underside of the grill. 6) removing the wiring harness from the grill Now that the YJ grill is gone... Slide the TJ grill in to place. (a picture with the grill test fitted)You may notice your fenders may bow out at this point. This is due to the fact the TJ grill is wider at the bottom. This is not a
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04/22/2008
I couldn't afford the $2000 kit from Hesco, but Hesco will actually sell individual pieces. You can even download their intallation instructions, so the details I leave out can be found in there. I got all of my junkyard parts off of a 95 Cherokee 4.0. Here is what you will need. - Intake manifold w/ throttle body, fuel rail etc. - Engine wiring harness w/ PDC( I found the wiring to be easier with the PDC) - ECM (Computer) - E200 Fuel Pump (From some Ford trucks) - Coil - Distributor - Fuel pump block off plate (For a big block Chevy) - O2 sensor - Thermostat housing and temp sensor - Throttle cable - Map sensor Then I placed an order to www.hescosc.com - Dampner - CPS mounting bracket - Diode from Hesco to hook to alternator wire I then started removing all of
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04/22/2008
After a day of fun you Jeep may look like this:On my Jeep I have aftermarket wheels so I am able to access the main hub nut with the wheel still on. Start by removing the cotter pin:Then the cap:And behind the cap is a spring (shown on left):Next, use your trusty 36mm socket to break that nut before you take off the wheel:With the nut torqued to 175ft/lbs and rust/dirt seizing up the nut, it isn't a surprise that a cheater bar helps In this case it is my old tie rod.Now jack up your axle:And remove the wheel, place it under your sliders if you have them or under your hub in the event your Jeep falls off the jack, it won't crash onto the ground:Next, remove the caliper bracket (2 x 18mm bolts) and hang it from the spring via wire or zip ties:Next, on the back side of the knuckle there ar
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04/21/2008
I have (or will have) 4 sets of aux lighting that I want to control and I'm tired of having stickon switches on the dash. I didn't want to mess with OEM switches as they are pricier and I didn't want to search junkyards for those. Here is what I have got... Parts - Bezel from a TJ - 7.00 or so at a junkyard - 4 ARB switches (Carling manufacturer PN V1D1J66B -7.30 each from www.offroadtoystore.com - 4 ARB actuator (covers) with blue lenses PN VVAYC00-000 - 1.30 each from www.otrattw.com Tools - Phillips screwdriver - Wire stripper - Wire butt splices - Wire spade connectors - Wire cutters - 18 or 16 ga wireCigarette hole is filled with Cobra 75WxST mounting grommet so I can run the CB's connect to this and have it look clean (more in a bit). Installed with all switches (e
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04/21/2008
AW4 TCU SHIFT MOD I wanted a way that would allow me to completely control what gear my transmission will be in on my AW4. Knowing that my XJ had a Transmission Control Unit lead me to belive that it would be possiable to "fool" it into thinking other things. NOTE: This mod works on ALL year XJ's, however on the '97+ it sets off your check engine light on your gauge cluster. This can be easily removed with a code reader or I belive with 50 key on-key offs and it goes away. Parts Needed: - 3 Pole Switch - Wire - Wire Tap After taking out the Transmission Control Unit (TCU) and doing a few test, I figured out what wire did what. The TCU is located under the dash on the passenger side under the glovebox. It's behind the plastic panel there. You'll only be using 2 out of the s
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04/21/2008
CONTENTS 1) Vehicle Setup 2) Performance Review 3) Installation 4) Additional Resources 1) VEHICLE SETUP This modification can be easily installed on Jeeps equipped with factory installed fog lights.* No other modifications are necessary.* No other modifications affect this install. ( For Jeeps WITHOUT factory fog lights, a switch will need to be wired into the dash. ) 2) PERFORMANCE REVIEW Overview: A trail night lighting system consisting of additional driving lights placed along side the frame rail (Fig 1) and pointing outward (to the side) is fired by a relay which is in turned fired by the factory fog light circuit.* By tying into the factory circuit (Fig 2) the system takes advantage of a fused switch already installed in the Jeep to yield a very clean and tidy
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04/21/2008
I began this this past Sunday afternoon and finished the brunt of the work within two hours. As it sits right now, the hoist itself lifts and lowers the hardtop with incredible ease. However, some fine tuning will be done. Some things I'm looking to work on are: cleaning up the hole I cut in the ceiling sheetrock for the cable to drop through (plan to frame the square hole with some door trim), find and mark the exact spot I need to back up to, and add the eye bolts and straps to the ceiling joists for long term storage. Supplies I used: (many substitutions can be made as you see fit) *Chicago Electric 440lb electric hoist from Harbor Frieght - $74 (after tax and extended warranty) *Long (don't recall length) Unistrut - $9.97 *4 x 1/4" x 1.25" lag bolts - $1.00 *4 x 1/4" washers - $
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